Saturday 30 March 2013

Sold to the highest bidder - 6,000 Camels!

Well finally, my last holiday of the month - Marrakesh!

For whatever reason I have been desperate to visit Marrakesh for a couple of years and despite the pouring rain it did not disappoint ( the rain was typical Maria luck; 2 days later it was 25 degrees and brilliantly sunny!).

We arrived relatively late in the evening, and ignoring our hosts fears that we would get lost, decided to instantly immerse ourselves in the hubbub. Within 2 hours we had pottered about the main market, caused a fight between two henna ladies, got my name and other squiggles written in henna on my hand (which I later found out will last a month!) and almost got sold off to an Arab in return for 6,000 camels. The cheaper option was to sacrifice just my eyes in return for 1,000 camels. Fortunately for Mark and myself, Paul resisted his temptation to open a novelty camel park, by selling his 'daughter', and I was returned safely and in one piece. Dad I can only presume he was going to share some of the camel profits with you?


Anyway it is a Paul tradition to start all holidays with a cocktail, and he was already ahead of me, having started in earnest on the plane with a Bloody Mary (YUK!). Well while in Rome and all that jazz, I decided to up the game and raised a glass of 'Sex on the Beach' - to holidays with great friends! Then back through the maze to our gorgeous little Riad Delfini (left, right at the bins, left at the cats, right under the arch, left, left erm left? anyway we found it)

I woke to the sound of birds (no not cockerels, just random squawky birds) and then had the dawning realisation that the other sound was pouring rain...oh well! I should note Paul had warned me the previous night that I would likely be woken by the many 'calls to prayer' at dawn. Nope not me...I slept right through all that :)

At a little cafe, dripping wet and still smiling


I had been my usual overly optimistic (impractical) self and not packed a coat, umbrella, or single item of warm clothing, and thus was thankful when the rain ceased. Ignoring the obvious chance it might return, I ventured out in a long summer dress, and crochet cardigan. I then had Paul constantly commenting on how cold I must be (he was wearing trousers, shirt, jumper and leather coat); but I adamantly refused to confess that indeed the giant goosebumps, dripping wet dress and chattering teeth were indeed indicators of being cold. Instead I happily pottered about in the puddles, huddled under a new umbrella (all umbrella's in Marrakesh are blue, chequered and automatic) and smiled at the 'experience' of it all. Everything seems rose tinted when you are on holiday. I'm sure I would have moaned at least a little had I been in the same predicament at home.

Many of the locals are very happy to guide you around, which can be a little irritating, if you are the sort who likes to discover things for themselves (rather than be wrongly guided and then expected to pay for the privilege), but in fairness to one, he told us about the Jewish market and I loved it. The Jewish market is supposedly only on for 1 week of the year and the traders of the main square go there to buy their wares from the Jewish traders who have brought their goods in from the Atlas Mountains. Honestly this could be true, or more likely a weave of lies. Either way it was far more ramshackle, and certainly looked more authentic, with lots of locals and no care for basic things, like a non leaking roof, order, or a traffic system for the donkeys. I was in my element and thoroughly enjoyed weaving through the stalls and ducking into ever smaller alleyways only to have to retrace our steps. Certainly if you visit, I hope the Jewish Market is on and you are able to experience it.


Wonderful hustle and bustle


I know I shouldnt but I'm going to get a little 'worky' and must say, that if you ever want an example of great sales technique, go haggle on the markets. I found it hugely satisfying to hear them run through the same techniques I have used in the past. They have a cheeky charm, and know when to play hardball. The prices are certainly hugely inflated for the tourists, but then they know how gullible we can be. In the case of the Jewish market we so enjoyed the experience of it, I know we most certainly got 'ripped off'. But then hey, what is a relatively small amount to us, can really make their day, and I personally can't help but reward great sales technique. I made sure they worked hard for my money, and left smiling :)

Mr Spice Man from the Atlas Mountains

Amongst the things I never knew I needed are:

  • Amber (for your knicker drawer - in case you get ran over by a bus and the doctor expects clean and amber smelling knickers?)
  • Mixed herb tea - lots of big leaves that requires lots of sugar (not included) in order to taste nice
  • Jasmine Balls - look strikingly like something I dung beetle would create but actually a home freshener
  • Lipstick - made of poppy flowers, bright red on a terracotta disk
  • Annis Tooth Picks - with free Annis seeds that fall out all over your clothes
  • Pumice thing - terracotta disk with a funky pattern on it that should sort your feet out
  • Two pashminas that I could have bought from Primark for a tenth of the price
Having fun dressing up

Anyway back on topic, this is really a city walking holiday and regardless of the rain, we walked for hours and finally weaved our way back to the raid. I was personally glad to warm up with a hot bath, which was dug into a single block of marble, though actually too small to fit in - again it didn't seem to matter that I had to take in in turns to wash each half of my body, and spent most of the time sitting with my feet stretching vertically up the wall or dangling out of the bath). We then ventured out again to another lovely restaurant, which due to its location, they sent a guide to collect us, walk us to the restaurant and then take us home again. This is a city that really hides it gems, the outside of the buildings often look so run down, identical and basic, but you have no idea what is within. We would have been very lucky to stumble across either of the great restaurants we visited,  and so were very thankful for the guide.

I was knackered and stuffed full of tagine and local puddings by the time we got back, and fell happily into dream land. Our final morning was a sunny one, yay! I even got a tiny strip of sun burn on my arm - proof I have had a hot holiday!!! Though not enough to justify not having another hot holiday (or at least trying for one). Having spent far too long in a shop seriously haggling the price down on a painting, that was realistically far too big, bright and unlikely to be of a subject matter Mark would want in our house. I forced myself away and made our way to the square which was a buzz with people, and looked even nicer in the sun. We took the opportunity to eat more local pastries, drink mint tea and while away the morning people watching. This you could happily do for hours. p.s. I still think of that painting :( Art is an addiction and I could do with a bigger house / own gallery :)

There were lots of orange stalls - and they were massive juice things

The main square

The dried fruit man

To sum it up, I smile every time I think of Marrakesh. It really captured me, and I would love to return. It is a joy to be immersed in!

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